4/27/2024 0 Comments Jd 4024 dropped fuel shutoff pin![]() I use quality "gas tight" crimp connections for these harness repairs, since solder can fracture from vibration in some cases. Yes, the neutral sense switch is in the pedestal under the dash and works directly off the ground speed lever, just like the 318. Sounds like several hacks/changes were made to your tractor in this area, so this is likely the source of your present symptoms. Safety switches on these machines are important, so my suggestion is that you restore their function - not only does this make it safer to operate your machine, but keeping it in factory configuration also helps those of us trying to diagnose issues remotely have confidence in the state of the harness, etc. ![]() I have two 318 models with the neutral switch mounted near the top of dash, I haven't checked where the 430 neutral switch is located.īecause your 430 is a 1990 year model, it came from the factory with the parking brake switch. Now I'll just need to track and check the neutral, brake (if applicable) and PTO switches as well as confirming solid grounds at all points. If so I'll have a spare solenoid, pretty much assuring it will never fail. If I'm reading your thoughts correctly, you doubt the delay control or solenoid is failed (good news). If the bypassed safeties weren't soldered, that will be done. Anything like this I personally prefer to solder whenever possible for corrosion issues, particularly on a 30+ year old tractor. That switch could also have been deactivated if there is one, another thing to check. I don't recall seeing a brake pedal switch and have never had to press on brake for starting. The occupant sensing seat switch was shorted by previous owner. This unit also has the rear PTO installed but I've never used it. Yes, both times, first when the 25 amp blew and when it just stopped the engine, I was running the front (mower) PTO. I'll be able to have hands on later this week. I live about 200 miles distant from where I use the 430. If there is none when key is turned to run or start, where do you recommend checking? It is both intimidating and frightening for access and cost if it leads to A1 delay module.Ĭhuck, Again thanks for responding, you obviously know the products well. Reading between your lines, it seems that you believe the issue may not be with the original solenoid but further upstream? This weekend, when I can get back to the machine, I'll better check to see what, if any, DC potential is provided to the Pnk and Pnk/Blk wires at the X21 connector. I will check with light and new solenoid when received. The VOM, being digital, may not effectively display the pull in 12 VDC if it is brief. I'll need to again apply 12 VDC directly to those windings, when I did previously, the solenoid did not move. 2 ohms resistance, about the same as if VOM leads are shorted. My VOM is relatively a good digital and does show. I was just now tracing the schematic and understand the fusible link is ahead of the key switch which would negate about all else from operating if blown.
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